Who Knew?

FYI:  Sierra Nevada Anniversary Ale + Dark Chocolate = Excellent!

Italian on the East Side - Convivio

So Convivio was definitely very good on a number of fronts.  We did the $59 prix fixe and concentrated on a mostly seafood path through the menu for the first course.  From what we ate it seemed pretty clear that Michael White, who was there hanging out with a table in the dining room around when we were leaving, seems to do very well with bright acidic notes.  He was really able to use them to make certain dishes pop.  For the appetizer Alison had a three pieces of yellow tail with a mix of olive oil and fennel, capers, and lemon had an excellent contrast and really hit some high notes.  My marinated sardines with a caper-type pod was good but didn't shout in the same way.

Our pasta course, where White is supposed to shine was also quite good.  I had a saffron gnocchi with crab and sea urchin.  It was pleasantly buttery-seeming (though I don't think White cooks with it) and the gnocchi were substantial, smooth, and flavorful.  I wouldn't write home about it, but it was solid.  Alison had a ricotta and leek in spinach tortellini that was incredibly delicate and broke and melted all over your tongue.  It was excellent.

For our secondi we both got fish dishes again.  Alison got the bronzino again that had another nice pop of bright colors to it.  I got the mackerel over potatoes and some other things that are escaping me.  It was put together with all the richness that you would want on the coldest rainiest rawest New York day.  It was a strong testament to White's ability to be successful in very different ways with fish.  Our server suggested coming back for more of a meat-centric experience to get the full picture, but on very empty stomachs.  Those portions are supposed to be much larger.

For desert we had a nectarine tart with a delicious almond ice cream that was good but I probably wouldn't order again.  We also got what was a relatively massive mini-flourless chocolate cake that was made with a rich and multi-noted cocoa and topped with candied hazelnuts that were out of this world - definitely a far cry from the traditional hit your over the head hazelnut flavor that I come by too often in ice creams.

Two other things struck me about Convivio.  First, the wine list was very well put together.  I don't like it when wine stores organize their wines by their characteristics.  I still feel like you're taking a shot in the dark when you pick like that.  If you really want to get what you want you should be able to ask a knowledgeable employee.  At a restaurant, however, I found that it helped to narrow down the choices before the sommelier came by.  It was particularly helpful that not only were the reds and whites split into a very small number of categories, but each one was further broken down by region of Italy.  This was nice, especially since drinking wine with my friend Gene has exposed me much more to wines from Italy's north.  We settled on a nice mellow red with hints of rose.  It was a good, well-assisted choice.

The other thing that was particularly noticeable was that despite having a reservation for 5 (we had to catch the Steve Earle concert at Judson Memorial Church around 8) and were the first party at the restaurant.  The next party of two that came it was seated directly next to us despite the fact that about 20 other tables for 2 were available.

Overall, it was excellent.  If there weren't so many (okay 2) excellent pasta options (for but a fraction of the price in my neighborhood) I'd be back for that meat version even sooner than I will.

Bruni's review here and Platt here.

The Corner Bodega Just Seems So Far Away Now

Among the excellent wedding party gifts I've received, the Beer of the Month club membership from Dave is the first I can post to the blog. The mix of beers have a pretty wide range of geographies (Maryland, Michigan, Kentucky, and Georgia), types (Saison Ale, Belgian style wheat, English style dark ale, and an EPA), and levels of development. The Celis White Belgian style wheat comes with a label, but it's capped with a generic non-branded bottle cap. I receieved three of each of the followign. Hopefully reviews will ensue:

- Red Sky at Night, Clipper City Brewing (Saison Ale) Baltimore, MD
- Celis White, Michigan Brewing Company (Belgian Style Wheat) Webberville, MI
- BBC Dark Star Porter, Bluegrass Brewing Company (Traditional English-Style Robust Dark Ale) Louisville, KY
- 420 Extra Pale Ale, Sweet Water Brewing Company (Extra Pale Ale), Atlanta, GA

Milk Thistle Farm

Several months ago I switched buying milk from Ronnybrook Farm Dairy (though I still get my butter from them) in favor of Milk Thistle Farm. The main reason for the switch was that Milk Thistle is organic whereas Ronnybrook is not. In fact, in the beginning I slightly preferred the richness of the milk produced by Ronnybrook's Holsteins over that of Milk Thistle's Jersey Cows. However, that's not the case anymore. The Milk Thistle milk this week was just incredible. I don't know what the cows have been eating, but this is the most incredibly milk I've ever tasted. It's rich. It's creamy. It has more nuances of flavor than I could begin to describe. I first caught a change in the taste of the milk a few weeks after the cows were probably spending more time in the pasture, but that was nothing compared to this. If you're in the NYC area do yourself a favor and pick up a half gallon. Their green market schedule is below:

• Fridays: Union Square
• Saturdays (8am-3pm year round): Grand Army Plaza, Brooklyn, NW entrance of Prospect Park
• Saturdays: (8am-3pm year round): Inwood, Isham Street between Cooper and Seaman
• Sundays: (8am-3pm June–Nov) Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn Carroll street between Court and Smith
• Sundays: The Columbia Market, 114th & Broadway

Kansas City, MO: The Grand Finale!

So it all built up to this. As we traveled from St Louis, down the Mississippi, through Texas, and then toward the North again, all we heard over and over was...."Have you been to Kansas City yet?"

And now some history on Arthur Bryant's: In the 1930's, Mr. Arthur Bryant built a BBQ palace in an industrial district of Kansas City, MO. The word spread around, but as generations passed and word continued to spread, one wonders, could the meat really live up to the reputation? These were the thoughts running through our heads as we approached 1727 Brooklyn Avenue, K.C., MO. As the pictures show, we had to wait in a long line to find out. We had to make it through a pretty rough and tumble gauntlet of meat cutters and packers, as locals elbowed their way to their sliced brisket and rolled their eyes as we hesitated on whether we wanted a "combo" or separate orders of beef brisket, pork ribs, and sauced-up "burnt ends" of pork shoulder. We opted for a separate order of each. With much sweat and near tears we brought the bounty to the table, as depicted above.

The verdict: all that you hear about Arthur Bryant's is true. This is THE BEST BARBECUE THAT WE EVER TRIED, AND IF WE HAD STARTED HERE, WE WOULD HAVE BEEN DISAPPOINTED BY EVERYWHERE ELSE. Meat: all tender in a way that was like a revelation, smoked slow with a deep and smokey dry rub. Sauce: truly unique paprika, cayenne pepper, cumin flavor with almost no sweetness. All dished up on slices of Wonder Bread with a side of french fries done up in PURE LARD. Just awesome. We really hope you all have the chance to make the pilgramage one day. If you want to expereince some of what Arthur Bryant's has to offer, check out the video at: http://www.arthurbryantsbbq.com/our_restaurants/brooklyn/photos.htm

Pit Stop: Oklahoma City

On a 12 hour drive from Austin to Kansas City, MO, we stopped in the stockyards district to have a steak at the well-known Cattlemen's Steakhouse. DANG! was that good steak! Have you ever had au jus degalzed with sherry to accompany your rib eye or sirloin? Try it. By the way, amazing service too.

Texas Dossier

Texas barbecue is distinctive in two ways: an emphasis on beef and a disdain for sauce. Most of this derives from the frontier/cowboy experience. If we come back in a century or so, we might see the Mexican spice influence starting to entrench itself. But alas "BBQ" and TexMex are different institutions today. We got a taste of both, with emphasis on the BBQ of course. (Though Nicole disputes this point, given that we did have 6 TexMex meals in a row.)

In Houston, we were very graciously hosted by Nicole's Uncle Charlie and Aunt Anita, who sheparded us to the local standard bearer, the County Line BBQ. It was there that we met our first beef rib of the summer, and we must say, quite intriguing. Aunt Anita insisted that what we were eating was not the best the County Line was capable of---we suspected that service and preparation were a bit lax after the intensity of the July 4th weekend. Afterall, we were there on July 5th. Nonetheless, the big meaty beef rib was a welcomed change: thick, smoky, and succulent.

Next stop was San Antonio, where we detoured a bit from BBQ a la Americain for a sampling of the finest TexMex fare that the state had to offer: Taco Taco. What makes their tacos so good, we determined---and much to our surprise---were the *tortillas*. Honestly, we had never experienced anything like the fluffiness and crispiness that Taco Taco had to offer. Apparently these tortillas are a vehicle for a breakfast that is to die for. We were in for lunch, and the carne guisada, fire grilled steak, and the "puffy" chicken taco were knock outs.

Houston and San Antonio, however, were both preparation for the main event: the BBQ captial of the Lone Star state (nation?), Lockhart.

Let me try to paint the picture here. The town is about 40 miles off the main highway, beyond expansive ranches and reedy hills. It's all American, with painted wood signs and colorful town hall in the middle of the square. It is here that specialists in texas BBQ have been plying their trade for generations. The style is beef-centric, slow cooked and smokey, and, generally speaking, sauceless.

We sampled the fare at Smitty's Meat Market, where you enter into a smoke-filled hall and walk past open fires that prepare the hickory and oak charcoal that are then loaded into the base of the 20-foot wrap-around pit. You are basically standing over the pit, with smoke coming into your face, when you are asked to order your meat by the pound. We went with a hunk of their brisket and their smoked beef sausage. The taste was good: The brisket had a "jerky-like" finish, the classic red "smoke ring", and was pretty (although not greatly) tender on the inside. The sausage was nice: we appreciated the beefiness. It did taste a bit like a desperate bratwurst, perhaps without the necessary pork and veal compliments necessary to make the real deal. In the end, the experience was fun and unforgettable, but we wondered: would Texas be able to outshine what we knew was on the horizon: Kansas City? Stay tuned.

A Very Special Mint Julep

Quite a while back my gastronomic mentor, Winnie, had me over for dinner and afterwards we broke out the small batch bourbons and ryes. Aside from the Tutthilltown Distillery's rye, which I believe was made from all local grains, the real standout for me was the Prichards Double Barrel Bourbon.

Now all bourbon is aged in oak. However, most bourbons are aged in oak and then cut down from cask strength to the 80 to 100 proof we all know and love. Prichards works a little differently. They feel that you're cheating yourself out of some of that good vanilla oak flavor by giving your bourbon just one trip through oak land. So after they age their bourbon in oak and cut it down to bottle strength they give it another jaunt through oak town by aging it in barrels just one more time, hence the double barrel of the name.

This bourbon is a little hard to come by and whenever I'm near Astor Wines I like to give their incredibly respectable bourbon and rye shelves a once over and a month and a half ago I picked up some Prichards myself. I had been enjoying its rich vanilla overtones with one rock for a while, but then earlier this evening I read about mint juleps in passing, recalled that I had some mint leftover from my zucchini, mint, and honey dish from Friday, and thought that it might go well with the rich Prichards I've been stocking. I improvised a little simple syrup, bruised some mint in it and added a healthy dose of Prichards. Divine, my friends. My own private Kentucky Derby. Instead of a minty sweet bourbon, it's a rich combination of the mint, vanilla, and something like brown sugar.

Food Coma

Breaux Bridge, LA - On the 4th of July, Cyrus and I fell into a deep food coma after eating etoufee at Prejeans in Lafayette, Louisiana. As a result, we fell behind on our postings. Not to worry, we will catch up. Just give us a few days.

After our swamp tour the following day, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast at Cafe des Amis in Breaux Bridge, LA. Their etouffee served over catfish was not as heavy Prejeans'. We also enjoyed some turtle soup, served with a little sherry of course. Though I'm still not convinced that the meat must be turtle. I think you could use chicken.

We ended out short tour of the bayou with a stop at Charlie T's for some boudin. The pork and shrimp boudin are pretty good. However, as a Wisconsin native I have to question anyone who puts rice in their sausage. But if you are interested in boudin check out boudinlink.com.

CSA Share - Weeks 6 & 7

The share from Roxbury Farm, my organic, biodynamic CSA (community supported agriculture) in upstate New York, has been incredibly bountiful the past two weeks. Last week I received braising greens (not pictured), snap peas, brocolli, beets, parsley, cilantro, cabbage, fresh garlic, three cucumbers, 2 zucchini, and 2 summer squash. The farm is located in Kinderhook and Roxbury sources the fruit for the fruit share locally and there was no fruit last week what with the area having been hit by some pretty serious hail a few weeks back ruining a lot of the stone fruit (and what had been a beautiful set of leaves on Roxbury's turnips). Regardless this led to quite a feast last Thursday: hard boiled eggs with salsa verde made from the RF's parsley, zucchini and summer squash with mint and honey, salmon with a cilantro "pesto," and a cucumber and non-RF tomato salad.


It's gearing up for another week of serious vegetable eating. This week I got some excellen blueberries in my fruit share and received my first set of onions, carrots, potatoes, basil, more squash, salad greens (not pictured), more zucchini, a boat-load of cucumbers, and the best sweet corn I've had since my dad used to grow a garden in New Paltz. Back then my dad would often eat some of the ears of corn right off the stalk. I've tried that with good looking corn, even from farmers markets, to almost constant disappointment. I took a bite out of the first ear I husked tonight and all intentions of pan-frying went out the window. The entire cob was devoured raw. So flavorful. So sweet. I even woke Alison up so she could take a bite and she took several serious chomps. The potatoes and carrots (along with a little non-RF rosemary) made some nice home-fries for dinner.

The Big Easy!

Highlights in New Orleans:

Fantastic dinner at Cochon restaurant:

• Salad: sliced mushroom, mint, fried cured beef, sliced onion and fried lemon.
  
• Sausage: pork/rice boudin with buttery gravy and pickled peppers.
  
• Casseroles: Eggplant and shrimp; crawfish with bernaise.
  
• Dumplings: rabbit with winey stew broth.
  
• Dessert: rich, corn-mealy pineapple upside down cake.
  
• Post-prandial: Catdaddy Carolina Moonshine (sweet with strong vanilla and cinnamon flavors).
  

Consider the following:

• Beignets at Cafe du Monde are the same as Zeppoles at San Gennaro Feast on Mulberry St in NYC?
  
• Beignets at Cafe du Monde could be improved if they were dipped in honey and sprinkled with cinnamon and relabeled "loukemades"?
  
• "Po' Boys" are the same as "Hoagies," which is fine, though it takes away some of the mystery, at least for us Northeasterners?
  

We were also suckers for the Community and Cafe du Monde coffee. It's a really dark brew and a bit richer (almost chocolaty?) with the chicory.

Memphis: 1 day, 3 meals, 3 RACKS OF RIBS!!!

Here's the report from Memphis: This barbecue capital hosts an eternal "dry" versus "wet" barbecue controversy. In the post from Nashville we indicated our appreciation that "dry" preparation requires more skill. But once cooked dry, a good rack or brisket can be enhanced by a carefully chosen sauce as a condiment. That's the approach we took here, trying three "wet" racks over three meals in one day around the city. Included in the slide show above are racks from Central BBQ, Payne's BBQ, and Blues City Cafe.

All three came recommended from various sources, but the standout winner was... PAYNE'S!!! Just take a look at the photos of that rack. That is what is intended by the phrase "falling off the bone": it should just become a big mess. The meat was smoked with a dry rub and served fresh off the pit. The bare bones restaurant is filled with hickory smoke, as it should be. You are asked whether you wanted your sauce "spicy" or "mild." Flora Payne takes that little bit of instruction to work up a magical plate of pork ribs complemented by a mustard cole slaw. Perfection.

Funny: we were hanging out with the folks at Sun Studio later in the day and told them we went to Payne's on Lamar Ave. "You went WHERE??!!" Apparently Lamar is not a typical tourist destination, and not somewhere to be lost after dark. But it's worth it, we're telling you.

The others---Central, Blues City---not so impressive. Central was way over-priced, had the "sauce bar", the ribs were cold and rather dry (i.e. they had been sitting around), yada yada. Not sure if this was an off day for this newcomer on the Memphis scene, which many around the internet claim as their favorite. Blues City's rack tasted like "fast cook" barbecue (boiled then cooked quickly over grill), which means little smokiness and a contrived "fall off the bone" quality. (Don't get us wrong, "fast cook," which involves parboiling prior and then grilling for an hour or less is perfectly legitimate at home. But it's not the same as real barbecue, and it's definitely inexcusable in a place like Memphis.)

Door County WI

Andrew and I went to Door County WI last week to enjoy a little free time before the hectic month of July. (For those of you referring to your right hand as a map of WI, Door County is located on your thumb). We started off the trip with the Shipwreck Bar and Grill in Egg Harbor. Their motto is I got wrecked at Shipwreck, which was not quite accurate for us but we had fun. Andrew wanted to go here because it is the only micro-brewery in Door County and they boasted about their seven in store brewed beers. Naturally we both opted for the seven beer flight and tried them all. Andrew preferred the Captain Copper Ale while I chose for the Bayside Blond Ale, which was slightly less hoppy. They also poured a Porter, a Door County Cherry ale (too sweet) and their seasonal wheat beer. Overall a good beer experience and set off the trip on a good tone.


Later that night we went to Coyote Road House for bbq ribs. These ribs are one of my favorites and they did not disappoint this time either. Other notable food include the onion loaf (half loaf shown below). What I like about these ribs is that they serve it with their "special sauce" right on top, so they come out covered. However I was a little disappointed when I asked for more sauce and they only brought me a very small container. Either way, the outdoor eating and the view of the lake all while eating ribs is a must.



Our last stop was on Washington Island, which is at the tip of the peninsula. We had dinner at the Washington Island Hotel and Culinary School. Notable things about this place, their 6-course meals and 3$ Wisconsin beers. We had the Sconnie Pizza, which included sausage, sauerkraut and a mustard sauce on top paired with a Point White Beer and a New Galarus Uff-Da, it was delicious. The desserts were also very good, my favorite was the blueberry tort with vodka soaked strawberries. Hmmmm.


And finally, if you are ever on Washington Island you need to go to Bitters End Pub. The sign is easy to miss but it is a must. This pub has been opened continuously since 1899. It stayed opened during the depression by serving bitters as a stomach remedy. At 90% proof I could only image what more than a shot would do to someone. So, you get a shot of bitters, then they sign your new bitters member card and you get to sign a guest book. Its Fun.

madison's magnus

Last night Kaitlin and I attended a most lovely wedding for our dear friends Caeli and Rick. They rented out the restaurant Magnus in Madison for the reception and it was really really delicious. Magnus uses locally grown organic produce, local meats and flies in its seafood. I was really happy that there was a buffet so I could try literally everything. From the sashimi sea scallops and ahi tuna to the beef tenderloin and mushroom struedel, gnocchi, roasted potatoes, green beans ... it was just a fantastic meal. I highly recommend dinner at Magnus if you are ever in Madison.

Oh, P.S. dessert was to die for and the drinks were divine.
Magnus has many specialty cocktails, my favorite was probably the Batida but here are a few others my friends and I enjoyed:
Batida (Cachca rum w/ passion fruit, lemon sugar & tamarind served straight up)
Mojito (Cachaca rum w/fresh mint, lime and sugar on the rocks)
Chilcano de Pisco (Pisco, Gingerale, lime juice)
Caipirinha (Cachca rum w/ lime, lemon & sugar on the rocks)
Latte Maria (Van Gogh Double Espresso Vodka, Rompope, fresh nutmeg)
Madre Jaguar (Amarula, Creole Schrubb Rum, cream and orange zest)
S. African Raspberry (Amarula & Chambord on ice)

A Brief Interruption

Okay, so Nicole & Cyrus are on a whirlwind tour of BBQ locales. And, we interrupt your regular programming with this brief interruption.

As many of you know, Nicole and Cryus like food. They especially like cheese. Not in the way a little mouse loves to nibble on a piece of cheap cheddar. Not in the way some foodies appreciate cheese, in the same way they appreciate wine. This is not simple appreciation. It is a long love affair full of passion, painful ups and downs, the joy of new discovery and the crushing disappointment when a particular cheese falls short of expectation. It is a way of life for these two.

And this kind of passion cannot be contained. It must be shared and passed on to all those within reach.

And so began my own unwavering love affair with cheese. My most recent and most lovely discovery has been The Cowgirl Creamery cheeses. My personal favorite is the Red Hawk cheese. It is pretty stinky and FULL of flavor! I found it at Whole Foods and I believe you can also order it online. Happy eating!

Nashville rocks, Oh yeah, you can find barbecue too

It seems like it's easy to have a great time in Nashville. We were only there for 24 hours. But in that time we caught a half-dozen bands of which the most notable were the Sunday night acts at Roberts Western World (Chris Casello & The Starlight Drifters and The Don Kelley Band).

But that's just some background to why you are really here. How hard do you have to look for barbecue in Nashville? Well, not so hard. There are a few joints on the main Broadway strip. We tried Jack's:



































The brisket is shown on left and pork shoulder on right. Both were smokey, tender, and served fresh off the pit. The prices are nice too. It's nice to know that this is available right in the heart of it all.

One thing that we are becoming weary of, though, is the "sauce bar." We have noticed that something may be awry when a bbq joint is unwilling to commit to a sauce and rather offers an array of "Kansas City", "Carolina", "Texas", "Memphis", etc. sauces. Here's why:

• First, we are doubtful about whether any single location is really making all these sauces. And then, if these are being bought from an external supplier, what should we infer generally about the other products?
• Second, shouldn't a bbq maker know what's best with their meat? We noticed that at Old Hickory in Owensboro, there was one sauce and one sauce only. And you know what? It was perfect.
• Third, to offer a sauce buffet seems to mistake what really matters in barbecue: it's about the meat and the way it is cooked. The sauce should complement the flavor. It shouldn't be the flavor.

All this being said, Jack's did a nice job with their meat. We only wish that they could commit confidently to their own sauce to highlight what they think needs to be highlighted.

mmmmmm-Mutton

Owensboro, KY - On our way from St. Louis to Nashville we stopped in Owensboro, KY - home of the International Bar-B-Q Festival held in May. Well, we may have missed the festival, but we did get to sample of the local favorite at Old Hickory Bar-B-Q - mutton.

We started with a serving of burgoo, a hearty stew made from mutton and chicken. Interestingly, Cyrus said that that the tangy flavors of the burgoo reminded him of abgoosht, a popular Iranian dish. I suppose Cyrus and the burgoo were destined to be to together.

Next, we moved on to the main course, a combo platter that included mutton, pork ribs (they were out of mutton ribs), and sliced pork. The sauce offered was a vinegar/tomato-based sauce with a mixture of spice and sweet. The sauce was no used in the cooking process, but offered for dipping on the side.

The star of the combo platter was definitely the mutton. It just grabbed onto that hickory flavor and tasted mmmmmm good. To say that the ribs just fell off the bone would be an understatement. There was barely any bone; they were all meat! I mention the sliced pork because it was there, but it was a little dry and needed a extra sauce, which I was happy to add.

The "must have even though I'm about explode" dish: At Old Hickory they also serve outstanding pecan pie. If you are a person who prefers the higher ratio of sugary goo:pecan, then this is the pie for you. The goo was not too heavy and solidified. Instead, it was wonderfully light and soft. The perfect note to leave Owensboro on

Salsa Verde, Hello New Friend!

I like to think of my friend Winnie as my own personal food guru - restaurant recommendations, recipes, suggestions towards adventurous eating. She provides it all and hits the mark every time. Recently I was perusing her food blog, Get in My Belly, and read about her recent adventures in pesto, garlic scape dip, and salsa verde. Luckily, my CSA share from Roxbury Farm that week included garlic scapes and the freshest parsley I've ever had.

The garlic scape dip proved to be excellent - both creamy and sharp with not much more than cannellini beans, garlic scapes, and olive oil. On some slices of whole wheat Pullman loaf from Silver Moon Bakery along with some green market cucumbers, it was a fantastic lunch at work this week. [ASIDE: If you live within marathon distance of Silver Moon I cannot recommend this bread highly enough. Full and rich without being heavy. A touch of sweetness that seems to come from the grains and not sugar. A beautiful tasty crust.]

I also made salsa verde according to the Alice Waters recipe. The result was left to meld for a day and then came across quite well on some basa en papillote (in parchment paper pouch layers from top to bottom: mixed braising greens, 4 oz. of basa, olive oil, dill, parsley, green onions, and a pat of butter - 8 to 10 minutes at 400 degrees or so). The real treat, however, just came this morning. Winnie had said that salsa verde was good on hard boiled eggs. I wasn't expecting much, but since Winnie's recommendations have traditionally brought me so close to gastronomic divinity that I gave it a go. I boiled some eggs according to the science informed technique of Harold McGhee (10 - 15 minutes at 180 to 190 degrees for optimum consistency) two nights ago and had them with my salsa verde this morning. It was absolutely incredible. Get yourselves some parsley and capers and go forth! Experience the sum greater than its parts which is the hard boiled egg with salsa verde.

Best of St Louis

(Turn caption on for full effect.)

We have spent the past 4 weeks in St Louis, and done our best to tap into the stomach of this town. First we have to say that we have had a great time here. It is a charming city with all sorts of gems. Here are some of our favorites, illustrated for you in the slide show above:

• Slow cooked pork a la Super Smokers. We did this two ways---with their sauce on our own grill, which was good, and at their restaurant which was great. We recommend: the PORK STEAK. Amazing. Ribs good too. Stick to the pork though. Other things weren't great.
  
• Beers at the Boat House in Forrest Park. And not just any beer, but the local Schlafly's Unfiltered Wheat Hefeweizen.
  
• DIY bloody mary's at Brandt's on the Loop. Don't shy away from the clam juice. Second place bloody mary goes to some place whose name we can't remember off of Euclid Ave that made them with gin and balsamic pickled onion. Dee-lish.
• Burning calories by touring the Arch (it really is impressive), Museum of Westward Expansion, and Old State Courthouse.
  
• Beef brisket sandwich at BBQ spot in Busch Stadium. I'm tellin' ya, it was really good! Much better than Super Smokers brisket, which was dry and tough. You can find the BBQ spot at Busch stadium near Ford plaza on the first floor by right field.
• Sitting in the gorgeous garden at John D McGurks Irish pub in Soulard.
  
• Not pictured here, but dinner at Charlie Gitto's in the Hill. Wow. Living in New York, we foolishly tend to think that we've seen it all when it comes to Italian cuisine. But the food here really exceeded expectations: slow roasted pork shank with dark fruit reduction over porcini risotto. Etc. And the dining room was perfectly rat-pack-eqsue, but in a tasteful and welcoming way.
  
• Being able to drink beers while touring the Missouri Botanical Gardens. I mean, it's sponsored by Anheiser Busch, you know? The jungle room in the climatron was a particularly good accompaniment to a Bud Select. The Chihuly and Niki sculptures were really cool too.
• Our take on St Louis pizza: we tried the local standard, Imo's, known for square slices and a very thin (Matzo-esque) crust. Cyrus prefers a bit more chew than crackle in his crust, and the pizza here was more the latter. But overall not bad.
  

Pasties (pronouced past-ees. Not paste-ees!)

For our second anniversary we went to Mackinac Island, Michigan. Located at the "tip of the mit", the island is a former French trading post and British fort. Since the 1800's it has been one of the hottest vacation spots in Michigan. To get to the island you take a ferry from one Mackinac City. No cars are allowed on the Island, making it a great place for hiking and biking.

My grandmother used to live about twenty miles from the Mackinac City. I spent summers there going to military re-enactments and eating the local favorite - fudge. In fact, the area is so popular for fudge that the locals refer to the tourists as "fudgies." (By the way, we tried Murray's and Jo-Ann's fudge, and definitely preferred Murray's. Much creamier and no sugar crystals.)

After crossing the famous Mackinaw bridge, I returned to my homeland, the UP (Michigan's Upper Peninsula.) The UP is known for its pasties. It is basically a meat pocket served with either gravy or ketchup. The miners in the area used to cook the pasties on their shovels. Although they probably didn't have any ketchup with them.

To order frozen pasties I like Dobbers. check out http://www.dobberspasties.com/v2/
If you want to try making your own, here is a recipe that I found at http://kenanderson.net

Cornish-Finnish-Michigan Pasties

Ingredients:

4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup shortening
1 1/4 cups ice water
1 teaspoon salt
5 1/2 cups thinly sliced potatoes
2 carrots, shredded
1 onion
1/2 cup diced rutabagas
1 1/2 pounds ground beef
1/2 pound lean ground beef
1/2 pound lean ground pork
1 tablespoon black pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons monosodium glutamate
1 cube beef boullion
1/2 cup hot water

1. Whisk together flour and salt in a large bowl. Cut shortening. Make a well in the center of the mixture, and quickly stir in ice cold water. Form dough into a ball. Set aside.
2. Dissolve the boullion cube in the hot water. Combine uncooked vegetables, uncooked meats, salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate, and boullion.
3. Roll out pastry dough into 6"x8" rectangles. Place about 1 1/2 cups of filling in the center of each rectangle. Bring 6" sides together and seal. Cut a slit in the top of each pasty. Place on a dull, not black, baking pan.
4. Bake at 425 degrees Fahrenheit (220 C) for 45 minutes.

We Love the Chicago Dog

We knew something was missing in our lives, and we found out what it was when we were passing through Chicago a few weeks ago: the Chicago Dog. We provide above a schematic representation for those uninitiated to this beautiful creation. From the bottom to the top we have:

• Poppy seed bun
• Mustard
• Onions
• Neon green relish
• Chargrilled Vienna Frank hot dog
• Pickled "sport peppers"
• Sliced tomato
• Sprinkle of celery salt
• Dill pickle spear

Where can you get a Chicago Dog? Many places in Chicago serve them. A thorough discussion can be found at www.hotdogchicagostyle.com. We like Hot Doug's (www.hotdougs.com). At Hot Doug's everything in the picture above can be yours for $1.75! And that is a big hot dog. In addition, you get to order from Doug himself, who really looks like his hot dog alter persona:


Here, we offer visual suggestions on how you might enjoy your Chicago Dog:




Cyrus can also vouch for the quality of the Chicago Dog served at the delis in Chicago O'Hare Airport: pretty good, although way too pricey. Nonetheless, if you need your fix, what are you gonna do? Two things you should NOT do are "hold the peppers" and put ketchup on it!

Congrats Kait!

My sister, Kaitlin, graduated from the University of Wisconsin-Madison this year. She majored in Latin American Studies and Women Studies. How Latin American Studies ties into the year she spent in Egypt is for her to explain.

Ever since she was a little girl Kait's favorite good in the world has been BBQ ribs. So, for her graduation our good friends, Tom and Julie Stuhlmacher, hosted a BBQ in her honor. They served the famous Dr. Pepper baby back ribs. They were delicious! Here's the recipe.

Baby Back Ribs
Dr. Pepper (enough to cover your ribs)
Couple cloves of garlic
Couple onions

Parboil all the ingredients in Dr. Pepper. When they are finished, throw them on the grill. Add sauce if you choose.

Dane County Farmers Market

Every Saturday in Madison, Wisconsin, local farmers set up around the State Capital. The market offers arguably some of the best artisinal cheeses in the country. Most of the cheeses never make it over the Wisconsin border.

Our greatest find - Hook's Danish Style Blue Cheese. Although Tony Hook has some great cheeses all around, his Danish style blue is outstanding! I am a particular fan of Danish blue. I like that it is salty, creamy (not crumbly), and evenly moldy (the mold is not concentrated at the center). Hook takes this to the next level. This cheese could make a blue cheese lover out of anyone.

Honorable Mentions: delicious smoked fish and jerky are not to be missed.