Kansas City, MO: The Grand Finale!

So it all built up to this. As we traveled from St Louis, down the Mississippi, through Texas, and then toward the North again, all we heard over and over was...."Have you been to Kansas City yet?"

And now some history on Arthur Bryant's: In the 1930's, Mr. Arthur Bryant built a BBQ palace in an industrial district of Kansas City, MO. The word spread around, but as generations passed and word continued to spread, one wonders, could the meat really live up to the reputation? These were the thoughts running through our heads as we approached 1727 Brooklyn Avenue, K.C., MO. As the pictures show, we had to wait in a long line to find out. We had to make it through a pretty rough and tumble gauntlet of meat cutters and packers, as locals elbowed their way to their sliced brisket and rolled their eyes as we hesitated on whether we wanted a "combo" or separate orders of beef brisket, pork ribs, and sauced-up "burnt ends" of pork shoulder. We opted for a separate order of each. With much sweat and near tears we brought the bounty to the table, as depicted above.

The verdict: all that you hear about Arthur Bryant's is true. This is THE BEST BARBECUE THAT WE EVER TRIED, AND IF WE HAD STARTED HERE, WE WOULD HAVE BEEN DISAPPOINTED BY EVERYWHERE ELSE. Meat: all tender in a way that was like a revelation, smoked slow with a deep and smokey dry rub. Sauce: truly unique paprika, cayenne pepper, cumin flavor with almost no sweetness. All dished up on slices of Wonder Bread with a side of french fries done up in PURE LARD. Just awesome. We really hope you all have the chance to make the pilgramage one day. If you want to expereince some of what Arthur Bryant's has to offer, check out the video at: http://www.arthurbryantsbbq.com/our_restaurants/brooklyn/photos.htm

Pit Stop: Oklahoma City

On a 12 hour drive from Austin to Kansas City, MO, we stopped in the stockyards district to have a steak at the well-known Cattlemen's Steakhouse. DANG! was that good steak! Have you ever had au jus degalzed with sherry to accompany your rib eye or sirloin? Try it. By the way, amazing service too.

Texas Dossier

Texas barbecue is distinctive in two ways: an emphasis on beef and a disdain for sauce. Most of this derives from the frontier/cowboy experience. If we come back in a century or so, we might see the Mexican spice influence starting to entrench itself. But alas "BBQ" and TexMex are different institutions today. We got a taste of both, with emphasis on the BBQ of course. (Though Nicole disputes this point, given that we did have 6 TexMex meals in a row.)

In Houston, we were very graciously hosted by Nicole's Uncle Charlie and Aunt Anita, who sheparded us to the local standard bearer, the County Line BBQ. It was there that we met our first beef rib of the summer, and we must say, quite intriguing. Aunt Anita insisted that what we were eating was not the best the County Line was capable of---we suspected that service and preparation were a bit lax after the intensity of the July 4th weekend. Afterall, we were there on July 5th. Nonetheless, the big meaty beef rib was a welcomed change: thick, smoky, and succulent.

Next stop was San Antonio, where we detoured a bit from BBQ a la Americain for a sampling of the finest TexMex fare that the state had to offer: Taco Taco. What makes their tacos so good, we determined---and much to our surprise---were the *tortillas*. Honestly, we had never experienced anything like the fluffiness and crispiness that Taco Taco had to offer. Apparently these tortillas are a vehicle for a breakfast that is to die for. We were in for lunch, and the carne guisada, fire grilled steak, and the "puffy" chicken taco were knock outs.

Houston and San Antonio, however, were both preparation for the main event: the BBQ captial of the Lone Star state (nation?), Lockhart.

Let me try to paint the picture here. The town is about 40 miles off the main highway, beyond expansive ranches and reedy hills. It's all American, with painted wood signs and colorful town hall in the middle of the square. It is here that specialists in texas BBQ have been plying their trade for generations. The style is beef-centric, slow cooked and smokey, and, generally speaking, sauceless.

We sampled the fare at Smitty's Meat Market, where you enter into a smoke-filled hall and walk past open fires that prepare the hickory and oak charcoal that are then loaded into the base of the 20-foot wrap-around pit. You are basically standing over the pit, with smoke coming into your face, when you are asked to order your meat by the pound. We went with a hunk of their brisket and their smoked beef sausage. The taste was good: The brisket had a "jerky-like" finish, the classic red "smoke ring", and was pretty (although not greatly) tender on the inside. The sausage was nice: we appreciated the beefiness. It did taste a bit like a desperate bratwurst, perhaps without the necessary pork and veal compliments necessary to make the real deal. In the end, the experience was fun and unforgettable, but we wondered: would Texas be able to outshine what we knew was on the horizon: Kansas City? Stay tuned.

A Very Special Mint Julep

Quite a while back my gastronomic mentor, Winnie, had me over for dinner and afterwards we broke out the small batch bourbons and ryes. Aside from the Tutthilltown Distillery's rye, which I believe was made from all local grains, the real standout for me was the Prichards Double Barrel Bourbon.

Now all bourbon is aged in oak. However, most bourbons are aged in oak and then cut down from cask strength to the 80 to 100 proof we all know and love. Prichards works a little differently. They feel that you're cheating yourself out of some of that good vanilla oak flavor by giving your bourbon just one trip through oak land. So after they age their bourbon in oak and cut it down to bottle strength they give it another jaunt through oak town by aging it in barrels just one more time, hence the double barrel of the name.

This bourbon is a little hard to come by and whenever I'm near Astor Wines I like to give their incredibly respectable bourbon and rye shelves a once over and a month and a half ago I picked up some Prichards myself. I had been enjoying its rich vanilla overtones with one rock for a while, but then earlier this evening I read about mint juleps in passing, recalled that I had some mint leftover from my zucchini, mint, and honey dish from Friday, and thought that it might go well with the rich Prichards I've been stocking. I improvised a little simple syrup, bruised some mint in it and added a healthy dose of Prichards. Divine, my friends. My own private Kentucky Derby. Instead of a minty sweet bourbon, it's a rich combination of the mint, vanilla, and something like brown sugar.

Food Coma

Breaux Bridge, LA - On the 4th of July, Cyrus and I fell into a deep food coma after eating etoufee at Prejeans in Lafayette, Louisiana. As a result, we fell behind on our postings. Not to worry, we will catch up. Just give us a few days.

After our swamp tour the following day, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast at Cafe des Amis in Breaux Bridge, LA. Their etouffee served over catfish was not as heavy Prejeans'. We also enjoyed some turtle soup, served with a little sherry of course. Though I'm still not convinced that the meat must be turtle. I think you could use chicken.

We ended out short tour of the bayou with a stop at Charlie T's for some boudin. The pork and shrimp boudin are pretty good. However, as a Wisconsin native I have to question anyone who puts rice in their sausage. But if you are interested in boudin check out boudinlink.com.

CSA Share - Weeks 6 & 7

The share from Roxbury Farm, my organic, biodynamic CSA (community supported agriculture) in upstate New York, has been incredibly bountiful the past two weeks. Last week I received braising greens (not pictured), snap peas, brocolli, beets, parsley, cilantro, cabbage, fresh garlic, three cucumbers, 2 zucchini, and 2 summer squash. The farm is located in Kinderhook and Roxbury sources the fruit for the fruit share locally and there was no fruit last week what with the area having been hit by some pretty serious hail a few weeks back ruining a lot of the stone fruit (and what had been a beautiful set of leaves on Roxbury's turnips). Regardless this led to quite a feast last Thursday: hard boiled eggs with salsa verde made from the RF's parsley, zucchini and summer squash with mint and honey, salmon with a cilantro "pesto," and a cucumber and non-RF tomato salad.


It's gearing up for another week of serious vegetable eating. This week I got some excellen blueberries in my fruit share and received my first set of onions, carrots, potatoes, basil, more squash, salad greens (not pictured), more zucchini, a boat-load of cucumbers, and the best sweet corn I've had since my dad used to grow a garden in New Paltz. Back then my dad would often eat some of the ears of corn right off the stalk. I've tried that with good looking corn, even from farmers markets, to almost constant disappointment. I took a bite out of the first ear I husked tonight and all intentions of pan-frying went out the window. The entire cob was devoured raw. So flavorful. So sweet. I even woke Alison up so she could take a bite and she took several serious chomps. The potatoes and carrots (along with a little non-RF rosemary) made some nice home-fries for dinner.

The Big Easy!

Highlights in New Orleans:

Fantastic dinner at Cochon restaurant:

• Salad: sliced mushroom, mint, fried cured beef, sliced onion and fried lemon.
  
• Sausage: pork/rice boudin with buttery gravy and pickled peppers.
  
• Casseroles: Eggplant and shrimp; crawfish with bernaise.
  
• Dumplings: rabbit with winey stew broth.
  
• Dessert: rich, corn-mealy pineapple upside down cake.
  
• Post-prandial: Catdaddy Carolina Moonshine (sweet with strong vanilla and cinnamon flavors).
  

Consider the following:

• Beignets at Cafe du Monde are the same as Zeppoles at San Gennaro Feast on Mulberry St in NYC?
  
• Beignets at Cafe du Monde could be improved if they were dipped in honey and sprinkled with cinnamon and relabeled "loukemades"?
  
• "Po' Boys" are the same as "Hoagies," which is fine, though it takes away some of the mystery, at least for us Northeasterners?
  

We were also suckers for the Community and Cafe du Monde coffee. It's a really dark brew and a bit richer (almost chocolaty?) with the chicory.

Memphis: 1 day, 3 meals, 3 RACKS OF RIBS!!!

Here's the report from Memphis: This barbecue capital hosts an eternal "dry" versus "wet" barbecue controversy. In the post from Nashville we indicated our appreciation that "dry" preparation requires more skill. But once cooked dry, a good rack or brisket can be enhanced by a carefully chosen sauce as a condiment. That's the approach we took here, trying three "wet" racks over three meals in one day around the city. Included in the slide show above are racks from Central BBQ, Payne's BBQ, and Blues City Cafe.

All three came recommended from various sources, but the standout winner was... PAYNE'S!!! Just take a look at the photos of that rack. That is what is intended by the phrase "falling off the bone": it should just become a big mess. The meat was smoked with a dry rub and served fresh off the pit. The bare bones restaurant is filled with hickory smoke, as it should be. You are asked whether you wanted your sauce "spicy" or "mild." Flora Payne takes that little bit of instruction to work up a magical plate of pork ribs complemented by a mustard cole slaw. Perfection.

Funny: we were hanging out with the folks at Sun Studio later in the day and told them we went to Payne's on Lamar Ave. "You went WHERE??!!" Apparently Lamar is not a typical tourist destination, and not somewhere to be lost after dark. But it's worth it, we're telling you.

The others---Central, Blues City---not so impressive. Central was way over-priced, had the "sauce bar", the ribs were cold and rather dry (i.e. they had been sitting around), yada yada. Not sure if this was an off day for this newcomer on the Memphis scene, which many around the internet claim as their favorite. Blues City's rack tasted like "fast cook" barbecue (boiled then cooked quickly over grill), which means little smokiness and a contrived "fall off the bone" quality. (Don't get us wrong, "fast cook," which involves parboiling prior and then grilling for an hour or less is perfectly legitimate at home. But it's not the same as real barbecue, and it's definitely inexcusable in a place like Memphis.)

Door County WI

Andrew and I went to Door County WI last week to enjoy a little free time before the hectic month of July. (For those of you referring to your right hand as a map of WI, Door County is located on your thumb). We started off the trip with the Shipwreck Bar and Grill in Egg Harbor. Their motto is I got wrecked at Shipwreck, which was not quite accurate for us but we had fun. Andrew wanted to go here because it is the only micro-brewery in Door County and they boasted about their seven in store brewed beers. Naturally we both opted for the seven beer flight and tried them all. Andrew preferred the Captain Copper Ale while I chose for the Bayside Blond Ale, which was slightly less hoppy. They also poured a Porter, a Door County Cherry ale (too sweet) and their seasonal wheat beer. Overall a good beer experience and set off the trip on a good tone.


Later that night we went to Coyote Road House for bbq ribs. These ribs are one of my favorites and they did not disappoint this time either. Other notable food include the onion loaf (half loaf shown below). What I like about these ribs is that they serve it with their "special sauce" right on top, so they come out covered. However I was a little disappointed when I asked for more sauce and they only brought me a very small container. Either way, the outdoor eating and the view of the lake all while eating ribs is a must.



Our last stop was on Washington Island, which is at the tip of the peninsula. We had dinner at the Washington Island Hotel and Culinary School. Notable things about this place, their 6-course meals and 3$ Wisconsin beers. We had the Sconnie Pizza, which included sausage, sauerkraut and a mustard sauce on top paired with a Point White Beer and a New Galarus Uff-Da, it was delicious. The desserts were also very good, my favorite was the blueberry tort with vodka soaked strawberries. Hmmmm.


And finally, if you are ever on Washington Island you need to go to Bitters End Pub. The sign is easy to miss but it is a must. This pub has been opened continuously since 1899. It stayed opened during the depression by serving bitters as a stomach remedy. At 90% proof I could only image what more than a shot would do to someone. So, you get a shot of bitters, then they sign your new bitters member card and you get to sign a guest book. Its Fun.

madison's magnus

Last night Kaitlin and I attended a most lovely wedding for our dear friends Caeli and Rick. They rented out the restaurant Magnus in Madison for the reception and it was really really delicious. Magnus uses locally grown organic produce, local meats and flies in its seafood. I was really happy that there was a buffet so I could try literally everything. From the sashimi sea scallops and ahi tuna to the beef tenderloin and mushroom struedel, gnocchi, roasted potatoes, green beans ... it was just a fantastic meal. I highly recommend dinner at Magnus if you are ever in Madison.

Oh, P.S. dessert was to die for and the drinks were divine.
Magnus has many specialty cocktails, my favorite was probably the Batida but here are a few others my friends and I enjoyed:
Batida (Cachca rum w/ passion fruit, lemon sugar & tamarind served straight up)
Mojito (Cachaca rum w/fresh mint, lime and sugar on the rocks)
Chilcano de Pisco (Pisco, Gingerale, lime juice)
Caipirinha (Cachca rum w/ lime, lemon & sugar on the rocks)
Latte Maria (Van Gogh Double Espresso Vodka, Rompope, fresh nutmeg)
Madre Jaguar (Amarula, Creole Schrubb Rum, cream and orange zest)
S. African Raspberry (Amarula & Chambord on ice)

A Brief Interruption

Okay, so Nicole & Cyrus are on a whirlwind tour of BBQ locales. And, we interrupt your regular programming with this brief interruption.

As many of you know, Nicole and Cryus like food. They especially like cheese. Not in the way a little mouse loves to nibble on a piece of cheap cheddar. Not in the way some foodies appreciate cheese, in the same way they appreciate wine. This is not simple appreciation. It is a long love affair full of passion, painful ups and downs, the joy of new discovery and the crushing disappointment when a particular cheese falls short of expectation. It is a way of life for these two.

And this kind of passion cannot be contained. It must be shared and passed on to all those within reach.

And so began my own unwavering love affair with cheese. My most recent and most lovely discovery has been The Cowgirl Creamery cheeses. My personal favorite is the Red Hawk cheese. It is pretty stinky and FULL of flavor! I found it at Whole Foods and I believe you can also order it online. Happy eating!

Nashville rocks, Oh yeah, you can find barbecue too

It seems like it's easy to have a great time in Nashville. We were only there for 24 hours. But in that time we caught a half-dozen bands of which the most notable were the Sunday night acts at Roberts Western World (Chris Casello & The Starlight Drifters and The Don Kelley Band).

But that's just some background to why you are really here. How hard do you have to look for barbecue in Nashville? Well, not so hard. There are a few joints on the main Broadway strip. We tried Jack's:



































The brisket is shown on left and pork shoulder on right. Both were smokey, tender, and served fresh off the pit. The prices are nice too. It's nice to know that this is available right in the heart of it all.

One thing that we are becoming weary of, though, is the "sauce bar." We have noticed that something may be awry when a bbq joint is unwilling to commit to a sauce and rather offers an array of "Kansas City", "Carolina", "Texas", "Memphis", etc. sauces. Here's why:

• First, we are doubtful about whether any single location is really making all these sauces. And then, if these are being bought from an external supplier, what should we infer generally about the other products?
• Second, shouldn't a bbq maker know what's best with their meat? We noticed that at Old Hickory in Owensboro, there was one sauce and one sauce only. And you know what? It was perfect.
• Third, to offer a sauce buffet seems to mistake what really matters in barbecue: it's about the meat and the way it is cooked. The sauce should complement the flavor. It shouldn't be the flavor.

All this being said, Jack's did a nice job with their meat. We only wish that they could commit confidently to their own sauce to highlight what they think needs to be highlighted.

mmmmmm-Mutton

Owensboro, KY - On our way from St. Louis to Nashville we stopped in Owensboro, KY - home of the International Bar-B-Q Festival held in May. Well, we may have missed the festival, but we did get to sample of the local favorite at Old Hickory Bar-B-Q - mutton.

We started with a serving of burgoo, a hearty stew made from mutton and chicken. Interestingly, Cyrus said that that the tangy flavors of the burgoo reminded him of abgoosht, a popular Iranian dish. I suppose Cyrus and the burgoo were destined to be to together.

Next, we moved on to the main course, a combo platter that included mutton, pork ribs (they were out of mutton ribs), and sliced pork. The sauce offered was a vinegar/tomato-based sauce with a mixture of spice and sweet. The sauce was no used in the cooking process, but offered for dipping on the side.

The star of the combo platter was definitely the mutton. It just grabbed onto that hickory flavor and tasted mmmmmm good. To say that the ribs just fell off the bone would be an understatement. There was barely any bone; they were all meat! I mention the sliced pork because it was there, but it was a little dry and needed a extra sauce, which I was happy to add.

The "must have even though I'm about explode" dish: At Old Hickory they also serve outstanding pecan pie. If you are a person who prefers the higher ratio of sugary goo:pecan, then this is the pie for you. The goo was not too heavy and solidified. Instead, it was wonderfully light and soft. The perfect note to leave Owensboro on