April Bloomfield - Not Afraid

I haven't been to The John Dory yet, but Frank Bruni's review in today's Times makes it sound like quite the experience.  A blurb to whet the appetite (or not depending on your level of adventure):

There are nervy surprises. For a while Ms. Bloomfield served pan-fried milt, which is basically cod semen, its flavor and texture not unlike that of sweetbreads. She blasted it with capers and butter, which is also how she blasts its replacement for the time being, monkfish liver, served not in the pâté-esque way of many Japanese restaurants but as a hulking, meaty, pan-fried lobe. I admire her immensely.